The start of our excursion over the Cho La Pass looks innocent enough - just a stroll up a valley with a little frozen creek to hop over. We’re starting at about 15,390 ft. here.

Although still easy going, we’ve clearly left the well-travelled main trails behind, and we’re picking our way over the boulders on the creek bed for a while.

When we reach the head of the valley, we start up a gentle slope with only a thin, firm crust of snow that gives solid footing. The porters (in standard-issue yellow snow/rain suits) have been given instep crampons to help them with their 80 lb(!) loads on the snow.

We crest a small ridge, but there’s still another valley to cross before we’ll even see the pass we’ll be climbing.

The ice layer over this creek is thick enough to walk on, but the footing is very slick.

We finally get our first good view of the pass! (It’s the snow-filled saddle in the center.) Our route countours around the talus ridge toward the right, crosses the final valley to the base of the mountain on the right (Peak 5638), then we climb the rocky patch of the scree pile at its base (near right side, in the sun) before traversing across the snow slope (in bright sun), cutting under the dark rock lip (just right of center), then heading straight up to the pass on steep snow and rock for the rest of the way. It looks close, but it will take us five more hours to get there!

Working our way to the base of Peak 5638 is a challenge in itself. The snow is now much softer and deeper in places, and I occasionally punch through up to my thighs!

On a small snowy ridge in the valley, the pass now looms ahead of us. We’re still on the easy terrain!

Looking back into the valley we just came up (from the right side), it’s easier to get a sense of the distance we’ve covered. But most of it was gentle or horizontal!

The climbing begins! Dik takes the lead and starts up the rocky scree slope at the base of Peak 5638. We’re finally on some steeper terrain, and I’m loving it!

The team stays close together now, and we start to feel the effort of each step on this uneven, loose rocky slope. Dislodged rocks roll much of the way to the bottom.

We’ve climbed as far as we safely can on the rocks, then we start the traverse across the snow. Dik, in the lead, cuts the steps and we follow footstep for footstep. Though firm and scalloped, the snow has an icy glaze that makes for slippery footing if you’re not on a cut, level step.

The traverse gives us a brief reprieve from the effort of the climb, but once we round the rocky lip, it’s straight uphill from there!

Rex resumes his sweep position to keep an eye on everyone. Our tracks across the traverse are clearly visible behind him.

Uphill through the mixed icy, snowy, rocky chutes proves to be the most difficult terrain to climb, since the snow will often collapse close to the sun-warmed rocks.

The view back, and a lone porter on the near slope gives a slight feel for the distance we’ve covered.

The steep terrain forces all of us to take frequent breaks. Our constant heavy breathing, coupled with the extremely dry air and sweating from the exertion of the climb causes us to dehydrate faster than I’ve ever experienced before. It becomes apparent that the 2-3 liters of water we’re each carrying will be inadequate for the day.

The cook crew has managed to stay ahead of us, and realizing our need for fluids, they prepare hot lemonade for us.

The climb resumes...

... and up and up we go...

...until the slope finally becomes more gradual..

...and we’ve reached the top!

The rest of the team makes it up...

...and we’re all here! Six hours of climbing, we’re at 17,780 feet, it’s 2pm...

...and time for the group photo. Everyone’s smiling in relief! (I’m second from left, in the front row.) But the downhill is yet to come, and the effects of our effort and dehydration are just starting to set in...